The End of the Road: Frank’s

The End of the Road: Frank’s

Pausing as a gentle rest stop, about halfway between San Antonio and Houston, there’s Frank’s.

Sad news, as this place is closing by the end of the year, according to the waitress. Heartbreaking, in a way, to me. Although it’s not been a frequent stop, I recognize the timeless quality and throwback nature of the place, and I understand this is one of the great classic diners from a bygone era.

“Great classic road-side food from a bygone era,” and that probably explains its closing.

I noticed no Super Walmart, or similar encroachment of sanitized civilization, so the obvious conclusion is that the family-run business has run its course.

The End of the Road: Frank’s

The last time I was there, on the way to Houston, stopped for a bite, bathroom break, piece of pie, and cup of coffee.

Wound up with ice tea and fried chicken with cream gravy. While quite good in its own right, the nostalgic look and feel added an elegiac tone to the news while making it all a touch sadder. The portions were huge. The ice tea was sweating in its glass. The waitress was local. There was a bus load from a “retirement” center, shuffling in, towards the end. Mementos and curios, leftover material that has gradually washed downstream until coming to a rest in Schulenburg, TX, by the side of the great East-West juggernaut, Interstate 10.

The cream gravy is every bit as rich and enticing as I would expect. The fried chicken was thickly crusted with batter, then perfectly crisp, piping hot on the inside, yet still tender. Dipped in that gravy? Little slice of heaven and a reminder of times gone by — times now lost.

The End of the Road: Frank’s

Frank's Menu Cover

Frank’s Menu Cover

The End of the Road: Frank’s

Frank's Restaurant

Frank’s Restaurant

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